WTO Cotton Talks Center on Value-Chain Investments as U.S. Regional Chain Faces Financial and Capacity Crisis

The Cotton-4 are pushing hard for new value chain investments. Still, many U.S. cotton producers face unsustainable losses, and weakened regional textile capacity threatens the survival of the Carolina “dirt-to-shirt” supply chain.

cotton bud with the sunset_Photo by Kelli via AdobeStock_386673555.jpg

A cotton bud framed by a sunset.

NASHVILLE, Tenn. (RFD-TV) — Cotton-producing nations are heading into next year’s Ministerial Conference with a sharper focus on market transparency, domestic support reforms, and value-chain investment. The latest briefing from the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) shows global cotton production holding near 25.4 million tonnes — roughly 116.7 million 480-lb bales — with consumption slipping slightly to 114.7 million bales. ICAC also highlighted the rapid expansion of specialty cotton, which now accounts for one-third of global lint as demand grows for long-staple and certified sustainability programs.

At the same time, African Cotton-4 countries — Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad, and Mali — renewed their long-running push for reform of cotton-specific domestic support, an issue they first raised in 2003. These producers argue that unresolved subsidies in major exporting countries continue to distort world prices and limit income growth for African farmers.

WTO members also reviewed progress under the Partenariat pour le Coton, a regional initiative to build a complete cotton-textile-garment system that keeps more value in African economies. UNIDO reported advances in investment planning, national consultations, and early work to expand local ginning, spinning, and finishing capacity.

Looking ahead, negotiators said a meaningful cotton outcome at MC14 remains possible, including a stand-alone deal if broader agriculture talks stall.

Farm-Level Takeaway: The Cotton-4 are pushing hard for fairer global cotton rules and new value-chain investment, while ICAC projects steady world output and rising demand for premium fibers.
Tony St. James, RFD-TV Markets Specialist

Meanwhile, here on the ground, North Carolina’s local “dirt-to-shirt” cotton system is under severe strain as growers, ginners, and textile operators face a third straight year of financial losses and shrinking regional capacity. Farmers report cotton prices stuck near 65 cents per pound — far below the roughly 95-cent cost of production — leaving the state’s fifth-largest crop deep in the red again.

The Cotton of the Carolinas supply chain, built to keep every step from field to finished shirt within the region, is now losing key links. TS Designs reports that its longtime spinner moved most operations to Central America, and the remaining spinning facility in Mountain City, Tennessee, was knocked offline by Hurricane Helene. A major fabric finisher also closed last year, tightening an already thin network.

For farms like Burleson & Sons and gins such as Rolling Hills, the economic pressure raises doubts about planting decisions and long-term viability. With mills closing or moving offshore, locally grown cotton has fewer regional buyers.

Across the broader Southeast, growers face similar cost pressures, global textile imports continue to expand, and synthetic fibers dominate low-cost apparel markets — eroding demand for regional cotton programs.

Looking ahead, Eric Henry, President with TS Designs, warns that without renewed purchasing commitments and more substantial support for domestic manufacturing, the entire Carolina field-to-fabric model may collapse.

Farm-Level Takeaway: Local cotton growers face unsustainable losses, and weakened regional textile capacity threatens the survival of the Carolina “dirt-to-shirt” supply chain.
Tony St. James, RFD-TV Markets Specialist

Related Stories
RFD News correspondent Frank McCaffrey reports from Texas on the ongoing water dispute and its implications for U.S. farmers.
RealAg Radio host Shaun Haney discusses the latest developments in the Supreme Court, trade tariffs, and the future of the USMCA under President Donald Trump.
A high-stakes legal case in a South Dakota federal court concerning misleading country-of-origin labeling (MCOOL), such as “Product of the USA,” on food products, will significantly impact U.S. agricultural policy for years to come.
Freight volatility increasingly determines export margins, making logistics costs as important as price in marketing decisions.
China’s beef policy risk stems from domestic volatility, making export demand inherently unstable. Jake Charleston with Specialty Risk Insurance offers his perspective on cattle markets, risk management, and producer sentiment.
USDA flash corn sales, Cattle on Feed and Inventory reports, and beef packer antitrust concerns dominate January agricultural market news.
Larger grain stocks increase supply pressure, but strong fall disappearance — especially for corn and sorghum — suggests demand remains an important offset.
Record corn and sorghum crops boost feed grain supplies, while reduced soybean and cotton production tighten outlooks for oilseeds and fiber markets.
Lewis Williamson with HTS Commodities joined us to provide analysis on the January WASDE report and expectations for grain markets going forward.

Tony St. James joined the RFD-TV talent team in August 2024, bringing a wealth of experience and a fresh perspective to RFD-TV and Rural Radio Channel 147 Sirius XM. In addition to his role as Market Specialist (collaborating with Scott “The Cow Guy” Shellady to provide radio and TV audiences with the latest updates on ag commodity markets), he hosts “Rural America Live” and serves as talent for trade shows.

LATEST STORIES BY THIS AUTHOR:

Texas Commissioner of Agriculture Sid Miller joined us to discuss data center expansion, farmland preservation, rural economic impacts, and imminent cattle biosecurity concerns affecting agriculture today.
The Pennsylvania Farm Show continues through Saturday, wrapping up another successful year of celebrating agriculture in the Commonwealth.
Shaun Haney joined us to discuss Canada’s new trade agreement with China, the potential impact on farmers and exporters, and what it could mean for U.S.–Canada trade relations going forward.
National Corn Growers Association Chief Economist Krista Swanson discusses corn supply pressures, market fundamentals, policy considerations, and producer outlook for the year ahead.
The proposal signals a renewed push to offset tariff-driven losses, stabilize nutrition programs, and broaden eligibility for farm aid, though its path forward will depend on congressional negotiations.
Soft equipment sales signal cautious farm spending as producers prioritize cash flow over expansion.
Agriculture Shows
Join markets specialist Scott Shellady, better known as the Cow Guy, as he covers the market-close, breaking down headlines that drive the commodities and equities markets with commentary from respected industry heavyweights.
Crop yield champions David Hula from Virginia and Randy Dowdy from Georgia are back for another season with the aim of schooling more growers across the country in their winning ways.
“Texas Agriculture Matters” is a fun, informative look at the role of agriculture in our daily lives. The show utilizes the trademark wit and wisdom of its host Commissioner Sid Miller — an 8th-generation farmer-rancher and 12-time World Champion rodeo cowboy — to explore a new Texas ag-related topic each week.
From barnyards and back roads to metros and highways, Simply Southern TV on RFD-TV explores all of Alabama to bring you the best stories on farming, gardening, forestry, rural living, and youth in agriculture.
In the first week of each month, “Down Home Virginia,” produced by the Virginia Farm Bureau, airs its half-hour program. Other states’ Farm Bureaus featured on different weeks include Texas, Arkansas, Indiana, Illinois, Tennessee, Idaho, and New York, and news from the American Farm Bureau from Washington, D.C.